Roaming Paso Robles

Kelly Simmerman

Wine, oh Yes, the Wine!

Paso Robles is quickly becoming a wine growing and wine making California superstar. Located in the Central Coast area halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, Paso keeps its friendly small town feel but boasts world class wines.  

Recently, I learned that Paso Robles is actually the biggest AVA (American Viticultural Area) in California, but it is quite distinct in its characteristics. Unlike the warm and steady weather seen in most of California’s wine-growing regions, in Paso Robles, you’ll find that the average daytime temperature fluctuates more than any other California appellation.   

Some popular wines you may have heard of like Las Tablas Creek and Justin, but there are so many more. Paso has over 250 wineries and is growing every day. Here is my short list (for today) though it was hard to narrow it down. My pick five Paso Robles wineries will include some biggies and some boutique-ies. Any great winetasting journey should include as diverse and representative a sample as possible! I’m basing my decision on the wine, of course, but also the wine tasting experience.   

Keep in mind, tasting room fees and the prices of wine are going up everywhere. I’m posting this February, 2022. (Still in the pandemic. Get reservations or you may be turned away.) 

Adelaida Vineyards—I’ll start with one of my favorites for many years. Yes, Adelaida used to be one of the small guys, but they have grown year over year because of their superior wines. They can also boast the fact that they are one of the Paso Robles original wine growers and winemakers. 

In 1964, Dr. Stanley Hoffman planted the first Pinot Noir in the craggy hillside terrain of what is now the HMR Vineyard in Paso Robles’ Adelaida District. Dr. Hoffman planted some of the region’s first Cabernet Sauvignon vines and continued in 1973 to plant Chardonnay in the HMR Vineyard. 

If you start your wine tasting journey with Adelaida, you’re setting a pretty high bar. It’s a classy place with estate grown, vineyard driven wines. I recommend getting a tasting out on their upper deck. The sweeping views of the Walnut orchard and vineyard are breathtaking, and in the summer, there’s always a nice breeze up there. Their tasting room is about ten minutes from downtown Paso Robles on Adelaida Road. 

Insider’s hint: There are 2 Tesla and 1 standard EV charger in the front parking lot. 

The basic tasting experience is $25 per person, and free to members. 

Denner Vineyards—After traveling the state for years, searching for the perfect piece of dirt to grow grapes that would produce highly acclaimed wines, Ron Denner finally found exactly what he was looking for in the far western reaches of Paso Robles. He began planting the first few acres in 1999, which has now grown to a total of 130-acres, consisting of s 20 different grape varieties and counting. 

Aron Nevarez, their Vineyard Manager since 2005, has had complete control of all vineyard operations, including the designing and planting of the 12 acres surrounding the winery. He is committed to environmentally friendly farming practices, using only sustainable inputs and minimal irrigation. Aron’s hands-on approach and years of experience with the vineyard allow him to produce the quality fruit Denner is known for harvest after harvest. 

It’s hard to decide whether it’s nicer inside Denner’s tasting room or outside on their patio. I usually opt for outside. In the cooler months, they have several outside fireplaces to cozy around. In the summer, shade and a nice breeze do the trick. If you’re lucky, Ron, the owner, will stop by your table for a chat.

Insider’s hint: He loves ice hockey! 

Tasting fee is $30 and is waived when you purchase one bottle. 

Ranchero Cellars—We actually met Amy Butler, owner and winemaker at Ranchero, before we even tasted her wines. We were invited to a neighborhood dinner and Amy brought several bottles of her own wine.  

Her 2017 Viognier went deliciously with the appetizer cheeses and charcuterie plate. Then we moved on to the Tethered Beast and Fancy Boots, both 2018 vintages. The Petite Syrah in Fancy Boots has a silky mouthfeel that is unmistakably Ranchero Cellars style, with muscularity and depth balanced by lively acidity and considerable length. Both reds paired so nicely with the main dish. Needless to say, we went home from that dinner with happy full tummies and had made a friendship with another approachable and hardworking Paso winemaker. 

Ranchero Cellars is located in downtown Paso Robles on the City Park in Paso Underground. They are open every Saturday or call Amy for a private tasting. 

Insider’s hint: Ask Amy about her Ranchero car/truck. The story is a little heartbreaking, but it’s one of the reasons why she’s making such fantastic wines. 

Kiamie Wine Cellars—pronounced key ah’ mee. If you’re looking for fancy and pretentious, you might want to skip this spot. They have a goat. They have happy dogs. They have good wine. Nuff said? Nah I’m gonna keep going. 

Kiamie is a rustic style family-owned winery that gives the feeling of sitting in a friend’s backyard and tasting wine. But when it comes to their wines, don’t let the laid-back setting feeling fool you. They usually pour around 5 different wines, starting with the refreshing and crisp White Cuvee which is a Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne blend and end with their more robust red Meritage.  

I recently sampled the 2018 Meritage, and it was a delicious flavor of cooked blueberries and cardamom with a chocolatey finish. Red wine with a chocolatey finish? I asked Greg, one of the owners, about the finish, and he said it reminds him of the Mexican hot chocolate drink called champurrado.  

Insider’s hint: The goat’s name is, you guessed it, Goat! 

Seashell Cellars— Established in 2001, the Seashell Vineyard is nestled on the banks of the Huerohuero Creek just one mile east of the Salinas River. They chose the vineyard site for its unique microclimate and extraordinary soil composition. Since this is kinda far from Paso, lucky for us, they have a fun and lively downtown tasting room on 13^th Street. No snobby winery vibe, here. 

Seashell offers one white, a rose, and seven reds. The Grenache Rose is my favorite with its aroma of fresh peaches and flavors of strawberry and star anise. Their 2018 Cab Franc and 2018 Collection are tough to beat, as well. The Collection is a blend of 50% Mourvèdre, 37% Grenache, and 13% Syrah, and offers moderately intense notes of mulled black cherries, spice box, and peppery herbs in its medium-bodied, charming, easygoing style.    

In the tasting room, you’ll get to know Denice as she is there nearly every day. I think the place would crumble without her. It’s a 10-star experience. She’s knowledgeable about wine, and if she has it open, ask for a taste of the Reserve Syrah. Delish! 

Insider’s hint: Ask Denice if she’ll take a “beach” picture of you and your crew. They have an entire wall with a beach scene, and she’ll get out the sun chairs, surfboard, and leis for the perfect picture. 

I love the Paso Robles wine country. Reach out to me if you have any questions about Paso!